Lessons Learned: “…women came in all shapes and sizes all throughout history. Maybe we are not so unlike our grandmothers and great grandmothers after all! ”
Mary Ruth is a Volunteer at Centennial Village, and enjoys researching and understanding historic fashion.
Recently, I had the privilege to try out the McDowell Pattern Drafting Machine patented in 1901. This machine had been donated to Centennial Village, and I was really curious to see how it worked. I came to the project with several questions.
First, would the pattern pieces fit together well to make a great shirtwaist of the era?
Second, would they work with modern measurements? Everyone says that people are bigger now than in the past, and women are certainly not waist training with corsetry as they were at the turn of the 20th century.
The Pattern drafting Machine consists of 5 adjustable brass patterns. Originally selling for $17.50, they were designed to be the basis of making a whole wardrobe. The patterns are for the center back, side back, side front, front and sleeve. The Machine originally came with an instruction book that included tips on pattern drafting and measurements.
I took my non-historical measurements, (there are about 15 separate measurements needed.) and started adjusting the patterns. I was surprised that the pattern was easily able to adjust to my exact measurements. The outside edges of the pattern are the cutting lines, so all you have to do is trace out the pattern onto newspaper, and you have a lovely paper pattern to pin onto your fabric. Now to see if this will fit! I felt very brash as I sliced into a pretty light green cotton. These patterns have been unused for a century. Would this work? I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the pieces fitted together, and in less than 30 min, I had the bodice sewn together ready for the first fitting& It FIT! One tiny alteration on the back armhole, and I was good to go! The sleeve is a slightly different shape than we use now, being curved at the elbow, and made in two pieces, but again, the fit was good, and I was surprised at how easily things went together. The sleeves were a little less full than I was expecting. I guess when I think of 1901, I think of the really big leg o mutton style. However, after a little research I found that sleeves were getting smaller again by 1900, so the Machine was exactly right for the era. (Isnt that a huge surprise?) The instructions on how to make a stand up collar were sadly super confusing, but I was able to get it drafted and working with not too much trouble.
I come away from this project with several thoughts. First, I love my new shirtwaist, and can hardly wait to wear it again. The fit is better than many of my modern clothes. Why shouldnt it be? The pattern was drafted just for me from my measurements. Second, the ease of the sewing was phenomenal. If you research what was being said about the McDowell Pattern Drafting Machine back in the day, dressmakers loved it. In fact one woman said she would not sell it for $500 if she could not get another. I agree with her. Its a great system! Finally, women came in all shapes and sizes all throughout history. Maybe we are not so unlike our grandmothers and great grandmothers after all!